Ready to ROCK the U.S. Army
Duane 'The Rock' Johnson wearing the clothing as our brand ambassador.
The U.S. CONSTITUTION Teeshirt 100% cotton, cold-dyed.
Named as such because the US ARMY (graphic) is overlapping (or protecting) the US Constitution graphic that is placed sideways.
You can see the "We the people..." on his right side.
See below how this Teeshirt started from concept (below) to production (above).
This is the merchandising layout presented with the idea of the design, the colors, the SKUs, the graphic concept and the original inspiration with options for the font to be developed for the final art. The initial idea of the printing technique changed during sample development. This design page is used for meetings and for presenting the concept to the factory to use as a guideline.
The over all concept for the graphics in this season was to start with the main U.S. ARMY across the chest. Each time it will look different due to the process and materials used.
In this the Constitution is printed on the backside, then the front is printed with 2 different inks, both in White on a White Tee shirt. Finally it was cold dyed in various colors give an uneven lived in look that enhanced the blending of the various prints..
The underlying print is subtle but due to the garment dyeing process, each ink reacts differently and reveals the art differently.
This sweatshirt is reminiscent of the early ARMY Football team's jersey with a saddle shoulder, updated with contrasted heavy weight uneven slubby loops from the reverse side.
Heavy piqué knit underarms and ribbed knit contrast detail. Felt appliqué patch and small patch on the sleeve for exposed branding.
The lightly filled gray knit jersey shell with the olive cotton ripstop lining are combined the way a hoodie is combined with a military outerwear piece. The PU leather edging and zipper piping add durability and a rugged touch to the classic look.
The timelessness of the contemporary jacket is worn over a heavy weight cotton and linen shirt modeled identically from an authentic Army shirt of the 30's & 40's. The linen blend is used to give the broken in look as you wear it.
Inspired by a Vintage Military WWII Mechanics Sweater, this 100% knit sweater is light enough for a Winter layer, or as a sweater in Spring. Nearly unbreakable military grade Melamine buttons are used, but made of mixed colors to give the look of a Camo pattern, to give it an updated contemporary detail.
A 'Ranger' inspired patch on the sleeve in olive adds Army brand identity and attitude. Raw edge construction all over with full fashion stitches under armholes add a uniqueness to set it apart from the many copycats of an authentic US ARMY regulation issued sweater.
Ribbed cotton sweater with a polyurethane coated cotton placket that resembles suede.
Whole garment is washed with a snow-tipped finish.
It slightly bleaches the highest spots for a worn and faded effect.
Slim fitting enhanced the muscles of the arm in this clubbed cotton appliqué long sleeve shirt
Double layer appliqué, over printed tiger camo chest stripe
Slubbed cotton with contrast cotton webbing hidden button placket
Strength isn't always seen at first glance. The hoodie that's zoomed in below is made of vintage looking slubbed loop-back knit and over-dyed in a 'cold-dye' process to create an uneven look along the seams and slubs.
Army Mechanics insulated wiring was how we created pulls for our draw cord ends, using Heat Shrink tubing. The teeth are not only heavy weight, but are specially designed with wider 'wings' that were used for zippers during the 40's. The 100% cotton Star Patch strongly presents the brand ID, in a tonal effect.
REF: 302 Pullover Hoodie plan for graphic development and functional details
As you can see the evolution of this hoodie from the initial sketches here and the details found in other items from competitive shopping research were well maintained to the end product. The slub knit fabric developed during the sampling stage from a basic bale-dyed heather to this higher contrast yarn.
After the confirmation of all details with the US Army, we proceed to sample. Some changes were made to enhance the visibility of the embroidery appliqué and black and yellow barracks were added.
The style guide asked for the use of imagery like these 'vintage Eagle and Glory artworks.
One of the newer trends is to make a hybrid of an outerwear jacket and an everyday hoodie. When doing so a hoodie now has many details that make it more suitable for many more uses then a simple cover-up.
Original inspiration came from the Army's preference for utilizing particular graphics from their archives.
A product shot to go out to Press and in emails when discussing the style to help the sales of the product by showing worn in a normal outdoor surrounding, as opposed to a studio.
The Authentic Issue US ARMY 1775 Tee shirt in a slubby Poly cotton blend. Cold-dyeing creates a mottled contrast in the overall look that helps blend the stencil print into the garment to give it a 'feeling of Camo'. As a visual aid for the sales staff, this picture is moderatly touched up, without filters to use for simple product shots used in line sheets for buyers.
Bullet Casing Snap Head
The smallest details in the collection go to the extent of this snap which was inspired by the bottom of a bullet casing but finished with an olive paint from artillary boxes.
In this picture, what can be taken for granted happens to be more difficult that it looks. For example, here are the following things taking place: Rib knit supplier, then dyeing. Print house for the graphic. Special contrast yarn on the backside to pop up along the bottom. Then the pants, 2-ply yarn twill cotton sent for dyeing then to the print house for the Camo. High density emboidery for the high relief logo and Brand ID. Woven cotton Tape supplier to select the right tapes, then to dye house. Finally the Bullet Casing snap; from working with a NYC agent to develop, I create the artwork to make the moulds in HK, which go through several approvals and color ways to all end here.
The henley shirt above started as the concept below. Seemingly simple, but painstakingly laborious sometimes.
Traditionally a military shirt has been woven, and cargo pants have always been, but here the use of knit for both makes them as comfortable as your favorite polo shirt ands sweatpants. Contrast woven pockets lend a nod to tradition.
I hope that you enjoyed the designer's side of the product, the development stage through to images in a look book usnig the trims, graphics and fabric development.
Feel free to contact me at pablo@nyc.com if you any questions about my work or you would like to have me consult or design for you and incorporate my vast knowledge of military history and clothing details.
