The streets are where styles gain popularity and the youth were recognizing the comfort and the cool of Members Only on their own.
The inspiration to make my modifications came from the hipsters of Williamsburg and a dance scene is California. I made adjustments to the fit in making it less baggy, less dropped shoulder and looser at the bottom.
Below, examples of dancers and musicians from the 'Jerkin' scene. A vibrant homage to the Southern California dance scene of 2010 when I took over at Members Only.
I explored ways that this American icon of a jacket could be reconstructed and re-fabricated to retain the original's details but express itself to a whole new generation and to the fans of decades past.
A first for the Member Only Racer jacket, a vest version. Introducing: The ‘Jerkin Vest’— Inspired by the iconic Jerkin’ dance crews. This vest pairs perfectly with 'Vlado' sneakers that they promoted and it channels the electric hues of the '80s. It’s a throwback to the era when dancers donned Members Only jackets with a hip-hop twist.
Fun fact: It also happens to be that the word JERKIN means a 'sleeveless jacket'. (You see what I did there?)
Identifying the trend of the newer generation's fondness for the vintage jacket and reimagining it in a multitude of silhouettes and materials lead to its use in many videos, films and tv shows.
Chris Brown in "My Last" video wearing vintage Reeboks, YSL buckle and one of our authentic PU Leather Racer jackets.
POP color contrasts instead of all one solid color. The front facings and the linings were matching, using colors from the rest of the palette.
The lining fabric was used for the pocket bags so you could pull the chest pocket bag up to create a faux 'Pocket Square' accent, which were also part of a bigger plan to update the colorations with contrast color linings, rather than the traditionally basic 'DTM' dyed to match colors.
The POP color contrast was successful, so I took another approach for the following Spring season but this time I decided to give it a 'Sun-Bleached' effect to mimic the decades of washing and wearing that would fade the it out.
The summer sun-bleached washing treatment gave it a broken in feel that even the oldest of vintage Iconic Racer jackets don't have.
The feeling of vintage, with the fit of the new. Compared to the vintage versions, this one is lighter, softer and doesn't have that polished Chintz look from the 80's.
Limited Edition and commemorative variations were developed as you see in this Patriotic Racer.
The Flag, Contrast stitching and striped rib knit was all it took.
Before finding new silhouettes, I took the original details of the jacket, in the way Nike reworks the Air Force 1's, to see what variations would take the Racer to the next level, all while reinforcing the popularity of the original strap collar racer.
Collegiate
Retro Baseball
Plaid & Leather
Classic Plaid
Native American
Knit Baseball
Knit Hoodie
Knit Contrast & Stripe
Gray Sweats
Dark Coated Denim & Leather
Weathered Edged Suede
Attached Knit Hooded Racer
Baseball jacket with signature details: Coated Denim for water repellency, combined with a PU and the 'Iconic' shoulder detail in an embossed textured PU.
Modernized and streamlined in a washed leather: Signature details pared down by removing epaulets, knit at pockets, top stitching and the strap on the stand collar.
Before the Camp trend, there was this version of the Racer
Baseball style mixed with the signature knit pocket was a huge seller
Sensing the increasing popularity of camo and bombers inspo, I created a camo racer and a baseball bomber jacket.
Some simple ideas that may seem obvious after the fact had never been tried before like the electric color palette above..
Expressing the 80's vibe of Neon on the iconic 80's jacket and giving it a worn in wash updated it like you've never seen.
Reimagining of a famous jacket from the past, the 'Baracuta' as worn by Elvis Presley.
I wanted to make a totally new reversible version that could be worn in the day and reversed to a darker tougher version at night. The fabric is a single ply shell with an over-print on the plaid.
Perforated, Spring weight and washed PU allows this unlined leather looking stand collar Moto breath.
Notice the shoulder detail and strap collar are a nod to the Iconic Racer while the half knit cuffs do as well.
The original art I created above was in keeping with the graphic theme of the lightning bolt but this was inspired by the gas tank plaques of vintage motorcycles. The scratch effect and 3D look add to the retro feel.
Adding a hood, some racing stripes and a contrast lower body took the 'Racer' concept from the race track to the Speedboat.
A bit of vintage nostalgia was used in creating the sleeve patch below.
FOOL'S GOLD COLLAB
The Members Only brand has many fans, and some have many fans of their own. Sometimes they come to you to for something unique. In the case of Fool's Gold Records and Chromeo, they wanted something simple. They wanted a Members Only jacket, they found at a thrift store, to be mixed with one of their favorite Dior jackets.
Fool's Gold Record label owner and world famous DJ A-Trak and his brother from Chromeo, Dave-1 came to us to make a limited edition MEMBERS ONLY jacket based on an old cotton jacket they found at a thrift store. They gave us this art to develop the Gold yarn woven label.
He happens to be A-Trak's brother. It was his Dior jacket that he wanted me to make from the thriftstore MEMBERS ONLY jacket they brought.
The original MEMBERS ONLY poly cotton jacket with zip off sleeves above was a style we had never seen at our company.
Dave-1 was wearing a Christian Dior leather motorcycle that he loved and asked if we could make that raggedy jacket look like his.
Selecting a soft lamb instead of a cow, as was used in the 70's.
I added a quilted shoulder yoke detail, a Michael Jackson 'Thriller' flange shoulder detail and to set it off I used a special High-Shine chrome in honor of his band Chromeo. Adding the collar strap was the 'Iconic Racer' touch it needed.
Terry Richardson collaborated on a photoshoot with A-Trak.
The importance of collabs is underrated. The reach can go beyond expectations. With an ongoing collaboration with the Gumball 3000 car rally actors, singers, rappers and high value business execs from everywhere get together and wear the Members Only racer jacket as part of the uniform, giving the brand a special cache.
Below: Maximillion Cooper sporting the Driver's suede Members Only racer. Above: His car he drove in his race, GUMBALL 3000.
Bun B autographed Driver's Jacket from the 13th Edition race.
Graphic design for embossing on inside leather patch pocket commemorating the 13th Anniversary of the Gumball 3000 Rally.
Members Only gets Down-filled: Removable hood with a knit stand collar retains original 'Iconic' details but takes a twist with a retro color-block nod to the 70's.
A Trendsetter’s Tale: The MEMBERS ONLY Racer Jacket
Back in the early '80s, when the fashion scene was a kaleidoscope of bold statements, one jacket captured the zeitgeist like no other—the MEMBERS ONLY racer. This wasn’t just any jacket; it was the epitome of cool, a beacon of style that broke the mold.
Crafted for the Ages:
The jacket, with its sleek glazed chintz fabric, wasn’t just part of my wardrobe—it was a piece of me. Captured forever in my class picture, it stood out as a testament to my individuality in an era ripe for change.
Original MEMBERS ONLY vintage racer jacket
One color of 4 owned by myself, in my Sr. year high school pics
The hanger appeal of garment of the past were problematic in that the branding wasn't visible at first glance, hidden by the hanger itself. Not only that, the unsightly wrinkling and presentation of the main label were neglected.
Repositioning and color coding, as well as awareness to the neck label folding all added to customer's perception of the garment and brand.
Variations on a theme. In 2010, the font 'Sense' was created at the moment that I began revamping the brand's identity. Prior to my arrival as the menswear designer, it was simply the Helvetica font without consideration to the weight or the kerning of the original logo on hundreds of thousands of vintage Members Only jackets. T he 'Sense' font was visually similar with some differences that would give it better legibility.
Some labels of the past had a jacquard weave of a keyhole design. Others had a 70's Disco looking keyhole graphic that I felt could be updated, simplified and used in many different elements of the branding.
Unlocking Exclusivity:
“MEMBERS ONLY” wasn’t just a brand name; it was a philosophy of uniqueness and selectiveness that I embraced wholeheartedly.
From Inspiration to Fabrication:
Peering through the keyhole of the past, I translated the emblematic design of the vintage logo into a tangible reality. The result? Elements that weave the essence of exclusivity were at the back neck loop that mimicked the velvet rope of members clubs, as well as private members keys and into the very fabric of our insulated winter jackets in the form of a lining quilting pattern.
The first Logo
Playboy's exclusive key
Graphic I created in photoshop for marketing
Elevating the Essence of ‘Original’:
In a strategic move to distinguish our brand, we embraced the term ‘Original’ across our digital presence and media outreach. I championed this initiative by infusing it into the very details that defined us—on the snap head design with the iconic ‘Keyhole’.
